Reykjavík City Guide - A Local's City Guide
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If you are planning a trip to Reykjavik, what better than to read a Reykjavik City Guide written by an expat and an Icelandic local? I moved here 4 years ago now and have spent a lot of time wandering the streets, capturing Instagram posts, sketching, and making new friends in the downtown pubs, cafes, and restaurants. Ingimar is a local, having lived in Reykjavik most of his life. So, we combined our faves of the city and created the following Reykjavik City Guide - go on, bookmark this post.
How To Get There
Flying into Iceland, you will probably land at Keflavik Airport which is about 40 minutes from Reykjavik. If you’ve hired a car then head to your pick up but if you are looking for an airport transfer, either buy your ticket onboard Icelandair or at the desks in the arrivals terminal.
Airport - Blue Lagoon - Reykjavik (the Blue Lagoon is 15-20minutes from Keflavik Airport)
If you have any Tax-free shopping to claim on your way out, the desk for this is to the left - in between arrivals and departures. It’s worth noting that most Icelanders head to duty-free for their booze before baggage claim to save some dosh so if you’re planning on enjoying a little drink, join them.
Welcome to Iceland, you just landed on the moon
What To Visit, See, Do…
Parliament Square
A great place to start, or use as a meeting point, is Parliament Square. Yes, that stone building in front of you is the Icelandic parliament, built in 1881 and features a crown in the centre on the roof which was placed there in the time of the Danish rule. You can pretty much just walk right up to the front door. From here, plan your walking tour or enjoy some of the restaurants and bars nearby.
Reykjavik Cathedral
Next to the parliament, on the left in the below picture, is the Reykjavik Cathedral. The Cathedral has a beautiful wooden, dark interior and is often candle-lit. If you get a peek inside then you are lucky, the Cathedral is used for state services only.
Tjörnin Pond
Behind the Parliament is the Tjörnin Pond which freezes over in winter and locals ice skate on it. The city keeps a small section of the pond heated and defrosted for the resident swans and ducks. A walk around the pond shows off some local architecture, often now B&Bs or embassy buildings.
City Hall & its Topographical Map
Pop inside the City Hall for a look at the huge topographical map of Iceland. It will give you a good perspective of the landmass versus population, towns, and cities are painted in orange.
The Blockhead
Outside, where the ducks and swans often gather hoping to be fed, is a sculpture of a Bureaucrat aka ‘blockhead’. The building beside the Bureaucrat is Iðnó, the Culture House, and has a nice little cafe inside if you want a cuppa and a warm-up.
Harpa Concert Hall
This magnificent building stands proud on the coastline and was a survivor of the last recession. It’s a love/hate building but worth a visit. Pop inside to wander around this public building, use the toilets, and free WiFi, and take the lift to the 5th floor to enjoy the views. Inspired by fish scales, the modern glass facade is beautiful and takes on a new life when the sun catches the light and colour in the glass and mirrors. At night the facade displays a light show replicating the dancing Aurora of the Northern Lights.
Solfar/Sun Voyager
Further along the coastline, about a 10-minute walk past Harpa, you will spot the Sun Voyager (Sólfar) sculpture by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason which depicts a Viking ship. In the background is Mt Esjan giving a dramatic backdrop.
Reykjavik Houses
There are still a lot of residential streets in the downtown area of Reykjavik and many of the streets are heated using geothermal wastewater, which is great in the winter and avoids icy pavements. The houses are often painted in different colours and make for a fab Instagram picture or two. I love sketching them, the corrugated iron cladding and little windows are very Scandinavian and charming.
Central Square
A maximum 10-minute walk from anywhere, Central Square is a good place to locate yourself. With skateboarders in the summer and ice skating in the winter, there’s always something going on. See the steam from the extract vents in the picture below, pop your hands in your gloves, and onto these pipes to warm up. From here you can either head to the Old Harbour or Flea Market, up to Hallgrimskirkja church via shops and cafes, or Parliament and Tjörnin Pond.
Rainbow Road
Reykjavik is a small city and only has 2 ‘shopping streets’; Skólavörðustígur & Laugavegur. Both are relatively touristy and most Icelanders head to either Kringlan or Smáralind Shopping Malls. Walking on Skólavörðustígur you will see a rainbow painted on the road. A rainbow was temporarily painted in different locations around the city each year for the annual Pride Parade, and in 2019 the city decided to make this a permanent feature.
Leifur Eiríksson Statue
At the top of Skólavörðustígur and right in front of Hallgrimskirkja you will see a sculpture of the Viking, Leifur Eiríksson, who is said to be the first Icelandic settler (who Icelanders claim is Icelandic and not Norwegian). This statue was a gift from America to commemorate Iceland's 1000th anniversary of Alþingi, the parliament of Iceland.
Hallgrimskirkja
The church sits proudly at the top of Skólavörðustígur and is well worth a walk around before going inside to see the magnificent organ and enjoy its music in a very calm interior. Take the lift to the top for a small price, and enjoy 360 views across the city (on a clear day).
Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden
Located across from Hallgrimskirkja is the slightly gothic, beautiful Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden and Museum. Free entry so take 5 and wander around the small collection of sculptures inspired by biblical stories, seasons and nature, and the Icelandic Sagas. This park is even more beautiful if there’s been a fresh snowfall.
Cafe Loki is nearby if you are looking for a snack, they have Icelandic Lamb Soups or try the Rye Bread Ice Cream - and there’s a fabulous mural of the Sagas upstairs on the restaurant’s wall.
Museums/Exhibitions
I’m not one to spend a lot of time in museums or exhibitions when I travel, a gallery maybe but I usually prefer to wander the cityscape. Having lived here in Reykjavik for a few years now, I will be honest, I have only been to a few places and so will recommend those.
Perlan - Wonders Of The World
The Aurora Planetarium is well worth the show, and cost, and the Ice Cave is pretty cool too (cool). Pop up to the cafe on the top floor and enjoy the views across the city from inside, with a lovely warm coffee.
Flyover Reykjavik
I haven’t been yet but I’ve heard only good things - it’s on our list to do, soon.
Árbær Open Air Museum
This museum is on the outskirts of Reykjavik but is worth a visit if you’d like to see what Iceland looked like in years gone by. Wander around old houses and see people dressed in Icelandic National costumes.
Local Pools
One of the best things about Iceland is its geothermal energy and you can enjoy this whilst soaking in a ‘hot pot’ at a local swimming pool. There are loads to choose from but in Reykjavik, we recommend the following. Please note that you will have to shower before going in the pool - it’s only at the Blue Lagoon that this is a little more ‘private’.
read: all about the local pools
Vesturbaejarlaug
A great authentic experience with locals, a big outdoor pool with hot pots and one large hot pool - bus route 11, 13
Laugardalslaug
Right next to the national stadium, mix of locals and visitors. The pool is huge and offers lots of hot pots, plus a heated saltwater pool good kid pools, and slides - bus route 12, 14
Sundhollin
Possibly the most central, large indoor and outdoor pool with hot pots
*Senior Citizens swim for free
Aurora / Northern Lights
If you are traveling in winter then yes, you might be lucky enough to get to see the magical Aurora dancing in the night sky. But to see the Northern Lights, you need darkness (so the summer months are out), a cloudless sky (if you can see the stars then there’s a chance), and a good forecast (3-4 and upwards is worth a hunt) and a good bit of luck. The best months for getting lucky in spotting the Aurora are September, October, and March, April.
Read: the northern lights in Iceland
Where To Eat
(I’ll do a much longer Reykjavik Guide to Food and Drinks soon)
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
The famous hot dog stand at Tryggvagata 1 is where Bill Clinton visited and you can spot his picture inside. It’s worth a visit - even if you’re not all that into hot dogs. This little stand has survived recent modern developments all around it and is a treasure that stays open into the wee small hours. Opt for a hot dog ‘with everything’ for the full experience.
Mathöll Indoor Market
There are a few of these around the city but the easiest might be either Hlemmur or Grandi. The vendors change but the food is good and it’s a great way to please a large group.
ROK
Frakkastígur 26a (opposite Hallgrimskirkja church) is a newly renovated restaurant in a lovely old Reykjavik house, complete with a grass roof. The food is tapas-style Icelandic with a twist, and everything is good - cocktails too.
Brauð & Co.
For a very hipster and typically Icelandic cinnamon bun. They have a few locations around Reykjavik but this one at 16 Frakkastígur is very cool, just look at that mural. What do you see? Northern lights, snow, volcanos, midnight sun, bubbling lava? And, yes, it smells amazing.
Where To Party
When it comes to nightlife, Reykjavik is a relatively small city so don’t get your hopes too high. There are more and more bars popping up downtown and, to be honest, it’s been a while since either the Viking or I were out on the town so we’ll try our best here.
Download the app ‘Appy Hour’ and search out the happy hours to enjoy your bar brawl. We like Kaldi (cosy interior), Íslenski barinn (also good for food), Lebowski Bar (which has a small dance floor at the back), Slippbarinn (good for a chat and a drink), Kol Restaurant (amazing food and great cocktails too)
Kiki is the best nightclub in Reykjavik, in my opinion. It’s a queer bar, as it states on their sign. The music’s good and you don’t get hassled.
Music Festivals are big here so it’s worth checking out Sonar Reykjavik (February), Secret Solstice (June), and Iceland Airwaves (November).
Keep your costs down and buy your booze at the airports duty-free, along with all the Icelanders.
Also, it’s worth saying that the ‘Beer’ in shops and petrol stations is non-alcoholic.
Where To Stay
There are lots of hotels to choose from, from old to new, small to a large chain. We haven’t ever done a staycation but we like the look of the following.
CenterHotel Plaza
Midgardur by Center Hotels
Sand Hotel by Keahotels
Fosshotel Reykjavík
Rey Apartments
Loft and KEX are two of the most popular hostels in Reykjavik, both have loads going on and are often busy so you will meet other travellers easily. Loft offers Water Colouring which I sometimes go to.
Airbnb is a great option for Iceland and if you are hiring a car then you don’t need to stay downtown or central.
On a Budget?
Iceland is expensive. Be warned.
Book trips ahead, look into discount cards such as CITYCARD and try to cook for yourself instead of eating out. Do not shop at the local mini supermarkets downtown, or if you do please be warned that they are overpriced. Instead, opt for the larger chains such as Bonus (the logo is a big pink pig) or Krona.
Again, if you plan to drink, consider buying your alcohol at the airport duty-free.
Bonus Tips
Street Art
There’s loads of great street art in and around Reykjavik, this is encouraged and often paid for by the city. Some of these murals are stunning and some leave a lot to the imagination. Here are some of the ones you’ll no doubt spot as you walk around the city centre.
Polar Bears on Laugavegur
Whatever you do, whether in the summer or winter, we are sure you’ll have a great trip here in Reykjavik. If you have any questions, please pop them in a comment below or drop us a message. And, don’t forget to get a friendly hug from the Polar Bears standing guard on Laugavegur.
