An Instagram Guide To Reykjavik

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Instagram is like a travel photobook and I often look up places I am visiting to see what it looks like and get some ideas for posts too. So if you are like me, and are planning a trip to Reykjavik, here are my top 10 Instagram spots in Reykjavik - why not tag me @sonianicolson so I can see where you went.

Hallgrimskirkja Church (front & back of church)

Known as the big church, but note it is not the Cathedral in Reykjavik and sits proudly on the hill smack bang in the centre of town. It’s said to be inspired by an erupting geyser, and its bold and brutal architectural form certainly is dramatic. Go inside to take in the calm and minimal Scandi interior, listen to the magnificent organ, and take the lift to the top to enjoy 360 views across the city (on a clear day).

Icelandic Houses (in general)

Walking around downtown, you’ll see many picturesque corrugated-iron-clad houses, in many colours. Many of these houses have been in the same family for generations and are protected by the citi’s Planning Regulations. The original houses were typically constructed in timber with a stone coal store but after a large fire broke out years ago, construction changed to concrete. The corrugated iron was imported from the UK and used to cover wooden external work to protect it from the harsh Icelandic winter storms.

A cinnamon bun from Brauð & Co

Food, coffee, yay. This bakery is a treat for the eyes, nose, and stomach. The shopfront displays an abstract mural depicting Iceland’s landscape complete with mountains, moss, snow, volcanic eruptions, and the Northern Lights - or that’s what we see in it. Step inside and grab yourself a delicious cinnamon bun.

Street Art on & around Laugavegur (Tie Mural, etc)

The city has many murals on display across its buildings, by local and international artists. This is encouraged and some are well worth a wander to see.

Polar Bears on Laugavegur

A little touristy but the Polar bears standing guard on Laugavegur make for a fun picture - don’t worry, they’re not real and are washed every year.

‘Rainbow Road’ - bottom of Skólavörðustígur

The city used to paint a rainbow in different locations every year in chalk before they decided to paint it permanently in 2019 at the bottom of Skólavörðustígur. You can get a great picture from here, looking up towards Hallgrimskirkja.

Sólfarið (Sun Voyager sculpture)

This Viking ship sculpture, located in the bay, makes for a very dramatic picture with Mt Esja in the background.

Harpa Concert Hall

Come in and get warm. This beautiful modern concert hall is a fabulous public building so enjoy the outside but also pop in to warm up, use the toilet, get free WiFi and enjoy the views from the 5th floor. The building is inspired by fish scales and the glass is illuminated at night in colours to show off a display resembling the Northern Lights.

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur’s for a traditional hot dog

Order a hot dog ‘with everything’ to fully enjoy the Icelandic hot dog experience, and have a look inside the hut to spot a picture of Bill Clinton at this very hot dog stand - which has withstood recent modern developments all around it.

Tjorinn (the pond and City Hall)

Get your bearings. Inside the city hall is a topographic map of Iceland which gives a great perspective of the landscape, its glaciers, and coastline. The pond outside freezes over in winter and locals skate on it, but a small section is kept defrosted for the resident swans and ducks.

Bonuses, in & around Reykjavik

  1. Grotta Lighthouse (and foot bath)

    Just outside the city, head west along the coast until you get to the Grotta Lighthouse. This makes for a nice, but windy, walk but there is a little thermal pool here which is big enough to sit with your feet in and enjoy the view. This is also a good spot for the Northern Lights, if you can see them here then it is worth a drive further from light pollution.

  2. Reykjavik’s’ Old Harbor

    A great area to wander around, grab some fish and chips or lobster soup, and explore the harbour. Seabarinn is a good spot for some lobster soup.

  3. Perlan

    A few minute’s drive south of the centre is Perlan or the Pearl. This is the city water tower but home to a fabulous exhibition on Iceland with a planetarium of the Aurora Borealis and an artificial ice cave. The cafe on the top floor is great and the views from here on a clear day are fabulous.

  4. Cafe Flóran Bistro

    The cafe is located in the City’s botanical gardens and is only open in the summer months, check their Facebook page. The cakes here are delicious and the setting is beautiful.

  5. Árbæjarsafn Open-Air Folk Museum

    A very cool outdoor exhibition displaying buildings from years gone by. Step inside an old Icelandic home, see objects from the past and learn about construction and more. Staff are in costume and the site is near Elliðaárdalur where the waterfall below is.

  6. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden

    This sculpture garden is right beside Hallgrimskirkja, walk over the road and turn left. The garden is a little escape and full of bold and dramatic pieces which represent biblical stories or that of the Icelandic Sagas.

  7. Nauthólsvík geothermal beach

    Out near the domestic airport and past the University buildings is Nauthólsvík which is a nice little beach where you can spot some brave souls swimming but also you can enjoy the small pool here. Check times as it does close for cleaning.

  8. Mt Esja

    A hike that rewards you with a view across to the city, Mt Esja is the ‘table mountain’ of Reykjavik.

  9. Imagine Peace Tower

    The light that shines straight up from an island in the bay is the Yoko Ono Peace Tower. This is only light in winter but can be seen from all over Reykjavik.

  10. Elliðaárdalur Waterfall

    A beautiful park with an incredible waterfall right in the city, Elliðaárdalur is a fabulous walk and the waterfall is easy to find and well worth it.

Reykjavík City Guide - A Local's City Guide

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If you are planning a trip to Reykjavik, what better than to read a Reykjavik City Guide written by an expat and an Icelandic local? I moved here 4 years ago now and have spent a lot of time wandering the streets, capturing Instagram posts, sketching, and making new friends in the downtown pubs, cafes, and restaurants. Ingimar is a local, having lived in Reykjavik most of his life. So, we combined our faves of the city and created the following Reykjavik City Guide - go on, bookmark this post.

How To Get There

Flying into Iceland, you will probably land at Keflavik Airport which is about 40 minutes from Reykjavik. If you’ve hired a car then head to your pick up but if you are looking for an airport transfer, either buy your ticket onboard Icelandair or at the desks in the arrivals terminal.

If you have any Tax-free shopping to claim on your way out, the desk for this is to the left - in between arrivals and departures. It’s worth noting that most Icelanders head to duty-free for their booze before baggage claim to save some dosh so if you’re planning on enjoying a little drink, join them.

Welcome to Iceland, you just landed on the moon

What To Visit, See, Do…

Parliament Square

A great place to start, or use as a meeting point, is Parliament Square. Yes, that stone building in front of you is the Icelandic parliament, built in 1881 and features a crown in the centre on the roof which was placed there in the time of the Danish rule. You can pretty much just walk right up to the front door. From here, plan your walking tour or enjoy some of the restaurants and bars nearby.

Reykjavik Cathedral

Next to the parliament, on the left in the below picture, is the Reykjavik Cathedral. The Cathedral has a beautiful wooden, dark interior and is often candle-lit. If you get a peek inside then you are lucky, the Cathedral is used for state services only.

Tjörnin Pond

Behind the Parliament is the Tjörnin Pond which freezes over in winter and locals ice skate on it. The city keeps a small section of the pond heated and defrosted for the resident swans and ducks. A walk around the pond shows off some local architecture, often now B&Bs or embassy buildings.

City Hall & its Topographical Map

Pop inside the City Hall for a look at the huge topographical map of Iceland. It will give you a good perspective of the landmass versus population, towns, and cities are painted in orange.

The Blockhead

Outside, where the ducks and swans often gather hoping to be fed, is a sculpture of a Bureaucrat aka ‘blockhead’. The building beside the Bureaucrat is Iðnó, the Culture House, and has a nice little cafe inside if you want a cuppa and a warm-up.

Harpa Concert Hall

This magnificent building stands proud on the coastline and was a survivor of the last recession. It’s a love/hate building but worth a visit. Pop inside to wander around this public building, use the toilets, and free WiFi, and take the lift to the 5th floor to enjoy the views. Inspired by fish scales, the modern glass facade is beautiful and takes on a new life when the sun catches the light and colour in the glass and mirrors. At night the facade displays a light show replicating the dancing Aurora of the Northern Lights.

Solfar/Sun Voyager

Further along the coastline, about a 10-minute walk past Harpa, you will spot the Sun Voyager (Sólfar) sculpture by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason which depicts a Viking ship. In the background is Mt Esjan giving a dramatic backdrop.

Reykjavik Houses

There are still a lot of residential streets in the downtown area of Reykjavik and many of the streets are heated using geothermal wastewater, which is great in the winter and avoids icy pavements. The houses are often painted in different colours and make for a fab Instagram picture or two. I love sketching them, the corrugated iron cladding and little windows are very Scandinavian and charming.

Central Square

A maximum 10-minute walk from anywhere, Central Square is a good place to locate yourself. With skateboarders in the summer and ice skating in the winter, there’s always something going on. See the steam from the extract vents in the picture below, pop your hands in your gloves, and onto these pipes to warm up. From here you can either head to the Old Harbour or Flea Market, up to Hallgrimskirkja church via shops and cafes, or Parliament and Tjörnin Pond.

Rainbow Road

Reykjavik is a small city and only has 2 ‘shopping streets’; Skólavörðustígur & Laugavegur. Both are relatively touristy and most Icelanders head to either Kringlan or Smáralind Shopping Malls. Walking on Skólavörðustígur you will see a rainbow painted on the road. A rainbow was temporarily painted in different locations around the city each year for the annual Pride Parade, and in 2019 the city decided to make this a permanent feature.

Leifur Eiríksson Statue

At the top of Skólavörðustígur and right in front of Hallgrimskirkja you will see a sculpture of the Viking, Leifur Eiríksson, who is said to be the first Icelandic settler (who Icelanders claim is Icelandic and not Norwegian). This statue was a gift from America to commemorate Iceland's 1000th anniversary of Alþingi, the parliament of Iceland.

Hallgrimskirkja

The church sits proudly at the top of Skólavörðustígur and is well worth a walk around before going inside to see the magnificent organ and enjoy its music in a very calm interior. Take the lift to the top for a small price, and enjoy 360 views across the city (on a clear day).

Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden

Located across from Hallgrimskirkja is the slightly gothic, beautiful Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden and Museum. Free entry so take 5 and wander around the small collection of sculptures inspired by biblical stories, seasons and nature, and the Icelandic Sagas. This park is even more beautiful if there’s been a fresh snowfall.

Cafe Loki is nearby if you are looking for a snack, they have Icelandic Lamb Soups or try the Rye Bread Ice Cream - and there’s a fabulous mural of the Sagas upstairs on the restaurant’s wall.

Museums/Exhibitions

I’m not one to spend a lot of time in museums or exhibitions when I travel, a gallery maybe but I usually prefer to wander the cityscape. Having lived here in Reykjavik for a few years now, I will be honest, I have only been to a few places and so will recommend those.

Perlan - Wonders Of The World

The Aurora Planetarium is well worth the show, and cost, and the Ice Cave is pretty cool too (cool). Pop up to the cafe on the top floor and enjoy the views across the city from inside, with a lovely warm coffee.

Flyover Reykjavik

I haven’t been yet but I’ve heard only good things - it’s on our list to do, soon.

Árbær Open Air Museum

This museum is on the outskirts of Reykjavik but is worth a visit if you’d like to see what Iceland looked like in years gone by. Wander around old houses and see people dressed in Icelandic National costumes.

Local Pools

One of the best things about Iceland is its geothermal energy and you can enjoy this whilst soaking in a ‘hot pot’ at a local swimming pool. There are loads to choose from but in Reykjavik, we recommend the following. Please note that you will have to shower before going in the pool - it’s only at the Blue Lagoon that this is a little more ‘private’.

read: all about the local pools

  1. Vesturbaejarlaug

    A great authentic experience with locals, a big outdoor pool with hot pots and one large hot pool - bus route 11, 13

  2. Laugardalslaug

    Right next to the national stadium, mix of locals and visitors. The pool is huge and offers lots of hot pots, plus a heated saltwater pool good kid pools, and slides - bus route 12, 14

  3. Sundhollin

    Possibly the most central, large indoor and outdoor pool with hot pots

    *Senior Citizens swim for free

Aurora / Northern Lights

If you are traveling in winter then yes, you might be lucky enough to get to see the magical Aurora dancing in the night sky. But to see the Northern Lights, you need darkness (so the summer months are out), a cloudless sky (if you can see the stars then there’s a chance), and a good forecast (3-4 and upwards is worth a hunt) and a good bit of luck. The best months for getting lucky in spotting the Aurora are September, October, and March, April.

Read: the northern lights in Iceland

Where To Eat

(I’ll do a much longer Reykjavik Guide to Food and Drinks soon)

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

The famous hot dog stand at Tryggvagata 1 is where Bill Clinton visited and you can spot his picture inside. It’s worth a visit - even if you’re not all that into hot dogs. This little stand has survived recent modern developments all around it and is a treasure that stays open into the wee small hours. Opt for a hot dog ‘with everything’ for the full experience.

Mathöll Indoor Market

There are a few of these around the city but the easiest might be either Hlemmur or Grandi. The vendors change but the food is good and it’s a great way to please a large group.

ROK

Frakkastígur 26a (opposite Hallgrimskirkja church) is a newly renovated restaurant in a lovely old Reykjavik house, complete with a grass roof. The food is tapas-style Icelandic with a twist, and everything is good - cocktails too.

Brauð & Co.

For a very hipster and typically Icelandic cinnamon bun. They have a few locations around Reykjavik but this one at 16 Frakkastígur is very cool, just look at that mural. What do you see? Northern lights, snow, volcanos, midnight sun, bubbling lava? And, yes, it smells amazing.

Where To Party

When it comes to nightlife, Reykjavik is a relatively small city so don’t get your hopes too high. There are more and more bars popping up downtown and, to be honest, it’s been a while since either the Viking or I were out on the town so we’ll try our best here.

Download the app ‘Appy Hour’ and search out the happy hours to enjoy your bar brawl. We like Kaldi (cosy interior), Íslenski barinn (also good for food), Lebowski Bar (which has a small dance floor at the back), Slippbarinn (good for a chat and a drink), Kol Restaurant (amazing food and great cocktails too)

Kiki is the best nightclub in Reykjavik, in my opinion. It’s a queer bar, as it states on their sign. The music’s good and you don’t get hassled.

Music Festivals are big here so it’s worth checking out Sonar Reykjavik (February), Secret Solstice (June), and Iceland Airwaves (November).

Keep your costs down and buy your booze at the airports duty-free, along with all the Icelanders.

Also, it’s worth saying that the ‘Beer’ in shops and petrol stations is non-alcoholic.

Where To Stay

There are lots of hotels to choose from, from old to new, small to a large chain. We haven’t ever done a staycation but we like the look of the following.

  • CenterHotel Plaza

  • Midgardur by Center Hotels

  • Sand Hotel by Keahotels

  • Fosshotel Reykjavík

  • Rey Apartments

Loft and KEX are two of the most popular hostels in Reykjavik, both have loads going on and are often busy so you will meet other travellers easily. Loft offers Water Colouring which I sometimes go to.

Airbnb is a great option for Iceland and if you are hiring a car then you don’t need to stay downtown or central.

On a Budget?

Iceland is expensive. Be warned.

Book trips ahead, look into discount cards such as CITYCARD and try to cook for yourself instead of eating out. Do not shop at the local mini supermarkets downtown, or if you do please be warned that they are overpriced. Instead, opt for the larger chains such as Bonus (the logo is a big pink pig) or Krona.

Again, if you plan to drink, consider buying your alcohol at the airport duty-free.

Bonus Tips

Street Art

There’s loads of great street art in and around Reykjavik, this is encouraged and often paid for by the city. Some of these murals are stunning and some leave a lot to the imagination. Here are some of the ones you’ll no doubt spot as you walk around the city centre.

Polar Bears on Laugavegur

Whatever you do, whether in the summer or winter, we are sure you’ll have a great trip here in Reykjavik. If you have any questions, please pop them in a comment below or drop us a message. And, don’t forget to get a friendly hug from the Polar Bears standing guard on Laugavegur.

tag us in your trip @sonianicolson

5 Things To Do In Iceland

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Iceland is on many people’s bucket list these days, thank you cheap flights, and it’s well worth a trip but what should you have on your itinerary? Having lived here for 3 years now, here are my top 5 things to do in Iceland.

1. Reykjavik

You don’t come to Iceland to see the capital city but you will probably make a stop here so let’s cover it and then get onto the real stuff.

You can easily walk around the city in the morning and have it covered. Start off at the iconic Hallgrímskirkja church - this is not the Cathedral but it is a beautiful modern building said to be inspired by an erupting geyser, in the heart of the city. For a small fee, you can take the lift to the top and enjoy the 360’ views across the city.

Back down in the streets, wander around to enjoy the local architecture and by this, we mean the cute corrugated iron-clad houses. Pick up a cinnamon bun from Brauð & Co. on Frakkastígur before taking some pictures of the Polar bears on Laugavergar or the Sun Voyager sculpture in the bay. Walk along to Harpa, the concert hall, and enjoy the glass facade which is illuminated at night to replicate the dancing Aurora. Enjoy some lobster soup, fish & chips, or Icelandic lamp downtown or in the old harbor - or just snack on a hot dog from the famous Baejarins Beztu Pylsur stand on Tryggvagata.

There are loads of cafes or kaffi houses around to warm up in, plentiful street art to spot and museums or galleries to take shelter in.

2. Head out of the city

Iceland is all about nature, yeah Reykjavik is a pretty cool city but once you leave the traffic and buildings behind then you discover the real Iceland. The waterfalls, moss and lava, secret pools, glaciers and icebergs, black sand beaches, volcanos, and geysers - there is just so much to see. 

Glacier Lagoon

Jökulsárlón, aka the glacier lagoon on the South Coast, is by far my favorite spot and I still stand in absolute awe at it. Sure, it’s just a lagoon of ice, surrounded by ice, but it is so captivating and serene at the same time. The blue is so blue, the calm is “oh so quiet“ - ok I will stop now but you have to add it to your list if you are doing a road trip.

Thingvellir Techtonic Plates

As you head out of the city to the famous Golden Circle, take some time to wander the paths between the tectonic plates at Thingvellir National Park. This is where the Eurasian and American plates meet, and for the more adventurous travelers, you can scuba dive between them.

The Hot River Hike

Hike to the hot river at Reykjadalur, a fabulous 45-60min hike that gives you stunning views out to the Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands) and there’s a pretty cool waterfall on the way. Take a towel, swim stuff, and a drink to enjoy as you sit in the hot river and think about where you are.

Glacier hike anyone?

It’s pretty awesome that you can book to join a tour and do a hike on one of Europe’s biggest glaciers. I did the hike on Sólheimajökull which was pretty easy and most would be able to enjoy this experience. You get a hard hat and crampons so it’s safe and your guide will lead the way.

Walk in a volcanic landscape

Other than the Blue Lagoon, the area around Keflavik is a pretty special, and often quieter place. Head towards Grindavik and check out Gunnuhver, a geothermal landscape where you can see the stream rising and earth bubbling around you from all the volcanic activity.

3. chase waterfalls

You really can chase waterfalls in Iceland, they are everywhere and they are all unique and beautiful in their own way. Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss, is located in the northeast of Iceland but you don’t have to do a huge road trip to see some.

On the South Coast you will first come across Seljalandsfoss and then Skogafoss, the first of which you can actually walk behind. On the Golden Circle, you will visit Gullfoss but there are many lesser-known falls to visit as you drive around.

4. Geothermal pools

The Blue Lagoon is the first pool that comes to mind when talking about Iceland. It is iconic and well worth a visit, it can be very romantic too. As are many things in Iceland it’s pricey so book ahead and splurge for the ticket that includes the masks and a drink from the swim-up bar - it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience so you may as well do it right.

The slightly less famous pool, and therefore slightly quieter (and cheaper) is the Secret Lagoon near Flúðir. It certainly isn’t a secret anymore but it is one of Iceland’s oldest pools and worth a quick dip.

If you’re on the South Coast then you can make a stop off at the ‘hidden’ (from no one these days) Seljavallalaug which is fed by a natural spring and sits nestled in a valley under the infamous Eyjafjallajökull volcano.

Try out the local pools too, way more budget-friendly and fun experience. The largest one is Laugardalslaug, next to the national football stadium, or head to Vesturbæjarlaug where the hipsters hang out and Bjork has been spotted.

Wherever you go in Iceland, you will see some stunning landscapes. Park sensibly, stay off the moss, respect nature and you will have an amazing trip.

5. The Northern Lights

If visiting Iceland in the winter then you probably have the Northern Lights on your bucket list. Yes, they are magical and an incredible sight to see but you need a good forecast, dark cloudless starry sky, and a lot of luck to spot them. Whether you head out on a tour or on your own, head away from light pollution. You don’t need to go too far, just outside the city is great, and simply look up. If Aurora is dancing you will see her.

Personally, I have seen good lights from November to February, and tend to have a little look from our balcony (yup, we are that lucky) at around 11 pm and have gotten lucky. On the forecast, there is a scale and I would say if it reads 3-4 then you have a chance but 4+ is worth going on a drive out of the city. If you are dedicated then head out from 9 pm till 1 am, no later as it’s not worth spoiling the next day for. Good luck.

what were your favourite things in Iceland or what are you looking forward to?

Moving To Reykjavik, Iceland...how it's going

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I met my Viking, Ingimar, the old-school way - in a bar back in Edinburgh. The funny thing is that neither of us lived there at the time so it was a completely random meeting. I believe it was meant to be and the stars aligned for us that night.

Ingimar was on a football trip with his two best friends and had flown over from Iceland for a short trip, travelling from Bristol to Manchester and then Edinburgh before flying home to Reykjavik. I was on a hen night with old school friends (and dressed like an Air Hostess, of course) and had flown up for the weekend to see friends and family.

We had gone to a ceilidh bar in town called the Ghillie Dhu. To cut a long story short, his friend came over and said “My friend thinks you’re cute” and like tipsy girls, we giggled and continued our conversation. Realizing that was a little rude, as he was not Scottish, I decided to go over and speak to them. I sat next to Ingimar and said “You don’t look like you’re from here, where are you from?” and he said Iceland - to which I said “What? Nobody lives there” and, well, look at me now. We connected on Facebook (oh the romance) and then I left with my friends - I had such a reassuring feeling that we would meet again.

Real-Life Online Dating

Thank goodness for WhatsApp, Facebook, and FaceTime.

I remember the first time we did a video call, I was so nervous but the second we saw each other, we just wanted to meet up. It was weird because we didn’t know each other, we had met for such a short time in the bar that night but we felt so close already.

Meeting Up In Person

I was home in Edinburgh, on Christmas break when I got a call from the International Recruitment Team at University. I worked as a Senior Lecturer at the time and often went on international recruitment trips to Asia. I was meant to be going to China to deliver a lecture in January but they had to cancel and needed an academic on a recruitment trip to Iceland.

It was so completely out of the blue, I honestly thought that this was the stars lining up for us. I mean, there was no reason for me to be going to Iceland other than to see Ingimar, and it was a big step to do so. We were at the stage where one of us would have to book a flight and make the first move but neither of us was quite ready to leap. This was fate.

A Little Long Distance

A load of late-night calls turned into searching sky scanner for the cheapest flights, and after a good few visits back and forth we finally approached the question of who would make the big move so we could be together.

At the time I was living and working down on the South Coast of England in Bournemouth. I had a good job as a Senior Lecturer at the University and was getting to visit India frequently with the British Council - but I was burnt out. Ingimar was working for a big games company here in Iceland and had never lived abroad so it would have been a much bigger step for him, plus he was happy in his job. His mother had recently passed away and we left it was too soon to leave his home, friends, and family. All things pointed to me moving and so we started to plan.

Planned To Relocate

Midterm break and I flew over to Iceland and spent the break staying with Ingimar. We did normal things, he went to work and I wandered around, trying to imagine life in Iceland. Moving abroad for me wasn’t as big a deal as many might think. I had lived for a year in Japan doing my MA, and a good few years in India working and wasn’t living in my home city at the time anyway. I had visited several times by now, including for his Mother's funeral where I met the family and his friends. I was ready for a change of pace, and it was time to make the move.

Getting Engaged

Ever the romantic, I told the Viking that I would move under one condition - that we are engaged. Yes, we loved each other and were planning to be together, but I had to be realistic. I was leaving a good job, my friends, and my family, and I wanted a commitment from him. I wanted to know if we were in it for the long haul.

He proposed at Christmas, and I moved over in February.

I Quit My Job

Handing in my notice at work was filled with mixed emotions. I was ready to let go of all the stress, pressure, and admin but I loved my job and working with my students. I didn’t look forward to telling them. I wrote a letter and was ready to hand it to my line manager, and HR. I asked for a meeting with him and straight away, I could tell he knew what was coming. I told him in our office and we went for a coffee to chat about my plans and new life. He was shocked but happy for me.

We planned how we would tell the students. We gathered all 250+ of them in the studio, along with the other academic and admin staff with who I’d worked closely. It was an emotional meeting but I am so happy that so many people came to wish me well and luck. My students threw me a little farewell party too - I think I had 3 leaving dos in total.

I miss the students and lecturing but I don’t miss marking, especially the many many dissertations.

Packed Up My Life for the new chapter

Anyone who’s tried to relocate, especially to a pricey country like Iceland, knows of the challenges. Ingimar found a packing company that shipped to Iceland and we signed the contract for the move. Unfortunately, whilst my boxes were in transit, the company went bust.

After a clear-out and a few trips to the charity shop, I packed up my necessities into my pink suitcase (which has been to both Japan and India with me) and the rest went into the boxes the company had delivered. It took me a weekend to clear my tiny studio apartment - with the help of my lovely Mum - and we checked into a hotel on the seafront for my last night in Bournemouth.

Fly Home To Edinburgh

I flew home to Edinburgh with Mum the next day, armed with my big pink case, and spent a couple of weeks seeing friends and family before the big move. During this time I did all the practical things like visiting the doctors and getting prescriptions, getting my eyes tested, and so on.

I packed my life up, tracked my boxes as they travelled to Iceland, and got myself ready for the next chapter of my life.

Finding Work in Iceland, & Working On Plan B

For those of you who don’t know, I’m a British chartered Architect who survived the recession by heading off to India to help set up a new Design School. Whilst in India I set up layoutlines.com as a place to share my ‘incredible India’ stories and returned to the UK to teach at University and assist in international recruitment. All this time I kept up blogging on Layoutlines and set up an Etsy shop to share my Architectural illustrations, and also to meet other like-minded creatives in my new home.

Moving to Reykjavik was going to be challenging employment-wise as I didn’t speak the language and had little to no connections. Getting to visit Reykjavik with the university recruitment team prior to moving was great and helped with networking a little. I knew the staff at the Art Schools’ illustration department and managed to get some guest lecturing work with them.

I spent months, literally months, applying to so many Architecture and Interior companies here but to no avail. Finally, I managed to speak to someone who told me that I wasn’t successful because I hadn’t been educated or trained in a Scandinavian country. So with that lack of openness, I decided to save my time and focus on my own thing.

working

Teaching and sharing my skills and experience was something I was passionate about and so I started to think of ways to do this on my own, through my website. I planned, wrote, and filmed the Portfolio Course and started to offer in-person tutorials which were great fun. I ran some workshops in our home and was working on growing my social media through YouTube and Instagram.

Aside from this, I have taken on temporary work doing copywriting, Marketing, Website Building and Content Creation for local companies too.

Relocated To Reykjavik - Vlogging

I made a very conscious decision to pick up my camera and film from the moment I landed in Iceland. I hadn’t ever vlogged before but I wanted to record this chapter of my life, and wish I had done the same for India and Japan.

A few years on and it’s lovely having these memories and special moments on film to watch back. My channel has been growing slowly and I love engaging with my viewers in the comments. Sharing my life was easy but now that we have Mia, I’m a little more conscious about what I share. Being a Mum makes me responsible for her and what is shown of her at such a young age. I’m always careful and try not to overshare but I feel it’s also important to share certain things and talk about some issues to help other new Mums.

I make a little income from my channel, mainly through ads so please subscribe. I want to make more informative videos on Iceland and Motherhood on my channel so watch out for these coming soon.

Getting residency in Iceland

The big question and I get how lucky I am that I come from an EU country (pre-Brexit) so it was pretty smooth. Also, moving here to live with my (at the time) fiancé meant that we were classed by the state as living together which in the eyes of the Icelandic TAX department meant the same as being married.

We went to the immigration offices and handed in the paperwork, my passport, and driver’s license along with proof of no other marriage. I needed to email them proof I wasn’t married (a nearly impossible thing to prove really) but I did this by emailing the Births, Marriages, and Deaths record office in Scotland who replied saying they had no record of any marriage and I simply forwarded this to them.

A few weeks later I had my residency status.

My Boxes, Lost & Found

The company which was shipping my boxes had gone under, literally days after picking up all of my belongings. I had the tracking number so could get on the shipping website and try to track where they were. As they were in transit, we knew they wouldn’t be returned to the UK but we had no idea where they’d go and when they’d turn up. Fingers crossed and praying to the shipping gods.

After a stressful few weeks trying to track where my boxes had gone, Ingimar got a call on his mobile from a delivery driver down at Customs who said my boxes were there. This was totally out of the blue, and he wanted to deliver that morning. We were both out. Ingimar had only just gone the work when he had to turn around and head home to help lift them upstairs and into the spare room.

My stuff and I were finally home.

Phew, Settling Into life in Reykjavik

Oddly, the vlogs helped me settle in. I could carry my camera around and talk to it, talk to whoever was watching, and sometimes express my self/emotions/culture shock.

I had a hard time in the beginning and felt very lonely. Iceland can be a very isolating place, the weather and dark winter don’t help. Ingimar was out at work, I was not getting any success with jobs and we hardly saw anyone. In the UK, we often just pop around to family but it isn’t the same here and I missed that. Even though I didn’t live in Edinburgh before coming here to Reykjavik, I didn’t get why it wasn’t the same here. I missed my friends and I missed being surrounded by students.

Weather in Iceland

I arrived in February, and in hindsight, that might not have been the best time. Snow, windy days and nights, lack of sunlight, and general wintery days meant for a slow, almost hibernating Sonia. This was good as it meant I took things slowly, I couldn’t fight a ‘winter mode’ so just went with it. I took slow snowy walks, got used to the darkness with candles and fairy lights, and enjoyed warming up in the local hot pools. Spring would eventually come and I could start to come to life again in my new home.

learning the Icelandic Language

There was a language course starting at Ingimar’s work and so he signed me up. It was the beginners class in Icelandic, which I have now completed twice. I speak a little Icelandic but I understand a fair bit. It’s a hard language and one which is a challenge to pronounce.

I can, however, say Eyjafjallajökull pretty accurately. That’s good enough, for now.

Icelandic Food

Iceland isn’t known for its cuisine, and I’d agree with that. I have tried my fair share of fermented foods and liquorice, I’m a fan of either. There are some seriously unusual foods here in Iceland, the festival of Þorrablót is all about eating fermented food and washing it down with Brennivín and my Viking eats dried fish as a ‘treat’.

But Iceland is an island after all, and a volcanic one at that, so food can be pretty pricey, especially eating out. Items grown here in Iceland tend to cost more than items shipped in because they are expensive to manufacture. Icelandic prices take a bit of getting used to but as a rule of thumb, double the price you’d pay for an item at ‘home’ then you might not feel quite as bad paying the Icelandic price.

We usually do our food shopping at either Bonus or Kronan. Grocery stores here are smaller than in the UK, with a lot fewer opinions and often you have to go to a few different stores, like Hagkaup, to find a specific ingredient.

I do love Icelandic Skyr, the Viking would hate me saying this as it’s a type of cheese but it’s like thick, creamy yoghurt. I don’t mind a hot dog or a hamburger with all the toppings and sauces, and whatever else they put on, and the Icelandic lamb is just delicious (sorry vegetarians). Icelanders are also massive fans of ice cream and can be seen queuing up, even in the cold dark winter months.

Making Friends in Iceland

I’ve tried a few ways to make local friends here in Reykjavik, and some have been more successful than others. Of course, being the wife of a Viking means you have access to his friends and their wives, but getting your group of friends is important.

In India, I went to Zumba three times a week and made friends in the class, and with the instructors too, so naturally I signed up for Zumba classes here. The class was full of fit, attractive girls, hogging the mirror, taking selfies on Snapchat, and looking so pulled together that they were ready for a club, not the gym. This wasn’t for me and these people weren’t my tribe.

I went on Facebook and searched for social groups in Reykjavik and found GGI (Girls Gone International) which has a monthly meet-up. I headed nervously to the cafe and met the girls. The chat was very pleasant, we exchanged our ‘moving to Iceland’ stories, but it wasn’t until after that a couple of the girls stayed behind and we chatted about life here, and what we missed or wanted to do. I had found my friends, my partying, and my creative gang.

Sometime later, pregnant me needed a mum group (aka the buggy gang) which is made up of wives or colleagues from Ingimar work, a friend from my aquafit class and other Mum-friends who happened to know one of us. These girls have kept me sane over the last year and a half.

Making Money self-employed

This is a serious topic and I will start by saying that I prepared for the move and had savings to help me survive a good few months whilst I either found work or created it for myself. I make most of my money online through my website and social media content.

I run this site, its online shop, online courses and workshops, and my YouTube Channel, and I’m a wife and Mum. It’s a huge juggling act and often a lot more work than I anticipated, but I love it and love that I’m building my business, my empire, and working for myself.

Planning Our Lives Together

I guess like many; we met, got engaged, (moved country) planned and got married, fell pregnant, and became a family. That makes it sound easy. Meeting and moving here was pretty easy and felt right. It was meant to be and I trusted in the stars - I think I got this thinking from my time living in India. Getting married was wonderful and I loved bringing our cultures and families together and then returning to Iceland to start our own wee family.

Work and bringing in money has been the biggest challenge. Moving to Iceland is hard, Iceland is expensive and the general living costs are high. Saying that salaries are high, but it depends on the work you can get. I came here with the promise of academic work - that fell through. I’m a chartered Architect with good experience - but no one here wants a non-Scandinavian designer. I have years of experience lecturing in the UK and abroad - again, no one is interested.

and, well, You Know The Rest…

It’s been tough but it’s been worth it so far. Iceland is a beautiful country, a safe country, and one where I feel very lucky to live. It has its pros and cons, it can be pretty isolating and the whistling wind drives me mad but for now, this is home.

Konudagur / Women’s Day in Iceland

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Today, 24th Feb ‘19 is Konudagur/Women’s Day here in Iceland, and though I failed to celebrate Husband’s Day/Bóndadagur back in January for my Viking, Ingimar was kind enough to keep my cultural education going and treated me to a wonderful Woman’s Day.

Konudagur is a day when husbands, partners, and boyfriends pamper their girls and show appreciation and love. It’s a day when women traditionally get the day off and are pampered by their husbands. So, after a lovely family meal (no, Mia isn’t quite up to a keto diet yet), I came home to hang out the washing, lol, and arrange the beautiful flowers my Viking had surprised me with - thanks Ingimar.

As a Brit, let’s add in some weather chat. Konudagur also marks an important point in the Nordic calendar. Góa is the second last winter month here in Iceland and when it gets visibly lighter, yay!! And today was certainly a beautiful spring day in Reykjavík ;)

So, if you’re Icelandic or your partner is, I hope you’ve had a wonderful Konudagur. Comment below with what you did and share your best Konudagur treats yet.

Made In Iceland, new prints & postcards

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our latest range of prints

Shop from hand drawings and illustrations to Icelandic letters, houses, and phrases. The print collection is inspired by life in Iceland and was designed and created right here in Reykjavik.

Juggling life with a newborn and developing this collection has kept me sane and been challenging all at the same time, but we are so excited to share it with you.

You can now purchase from the full range in the shop.

Icelandic Prints

This range shows 4 designs:

Map of Iceland - Icelandic Alphabet - “þetta reddast“ a common phrase meaning it’ll all work out - the very useful “ja ja“ (yes)

 
Þetta Reddast
Þetta Reddast
$19.00
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Icelandic Letters Prints

The Icelandic language is interesting if challenging. Here are some of the more unique letters from the alphabet (Ð, Þ, Æ, Ö) set within the famous and magical northern-lit sky painted in watercolour.

 
Icelandic Ð
Icelandic Ð
$5.00
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Reykjavik Streets illustrations

Select one or gather a little collection, these fun prints feature little hand illustrations of the Reykjavik streets we walk along - take in the cute houses and playful Icelandic street life. 12 designs available as A6 prints, select one or feel free to mix and match as you choose. Use them to send a note, postcard or just to display as a print.

 
Reykjavík Streets (set 3)
Reykjavík Streets (set 3)
$15.00
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Icelandic Mini Prints

A series of mini prints playing on the first few phrases my Viking taught me in Icelandic: “I don't speak Icelandic” & “I love you”…what more do you need to know?!

 
Icelandic ég elska þig - I love you print
Icelandic ég elska þig - I love you print
$15.00
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